Back in 2001 - Paul, Eliza (3), Karen & Sylvie (1)
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A big THANK
YOU!!! Our
New Zealand expedition was generously funded by the Yosemite
National Institutes and the Matthew
Baxter Memorial Fund.
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October 12, 2001 - El Portal/Yosemite, California, USA Nov 13 - Wellington
Another rainy day in paradise!
We all agree that rain and overcast is
better cycling weather than blazing sunshine,
especially down here in the land of the ozone
hole... Well, we usually think so,
except when it's raining, right?
If you look at Wellington on a
map, you'll see that we've completed our journey on
the North Island!!! Zoinks! We rode
nearly 1000 kilometers along the way, and will
likely hop the ferry across Cook Strait to the South
Island tomorrow. We've been strolling (in the
rain) around this fine city, quaffing as much ethnic
food as we can to counteract the frequent meat pies
of the last 3 weeks, and taking in a museum or two
(in short doses for kid's sake!). We also
picked up some mail here, including a case of Clif
bars, and a fabulous envelope of cards and art for
Eliza from El Portal "pre-school" friends!
That surprise really made her beam with thoughts of
her best buddies back home! Thanks!!!
Since our last update from
Rotorua, our family cycled up up up and over the
high central plateau of the North Island, with
fantastic scenery along the way... and even a couple
of sunny days! Wheeee!!! We visited some
amazing steaming thermal areas, including Wai-O-Tapu
with the largest boiling hot spring in New Zealand
(Eliza continually asked "where can we soak
daddy?" ...that's my girl!). The
bubbling, splorting, glooping mud pools were also an
exciting highlight, resulting in hysterical laughter
for both children!
The sun came out as we cycled along the shore of immense Lake Taupo towards Turangi, revealing freshly snow-capped volcanos in the distance. We enjoyed an extended sunny picnic on a pumice-filled beach (Eliza had to float every rock...), knowing the clear weather couldn't last for long! We were right! The next day was a layover day so Paul could sample the "best trout fishing in New Zealand" in and around Turangi, the self-proclaimed "fly-fishing capital of the world!" So he rented waders and gear, bought a few of the "sure bet" flies that have really been "brilliant" lately, and proceeded to hook one 9 inch trout in an all day downpour. Karen, caring for the kids all day, was pretty impressed with his output... Ahhhh fishin'!
The next day we rode the 50 or 60
uphill kilometers to National Park, skirting the
edge of several awesome volcanos; Tongariro,
Ngaruhoe, and Ruapehu. These astounding peaks
were, of course, completely obscured by clouds.
Paul even cycled without his glasses for a while due
to the heavy downpour. So we camped and dried
out in a great hostel (complete with a HUGE indoor
climbing gym where Eliza put on a harness for the
first time and climbed a few routes) fully expecting
to cycle onward the next day due to rough weather.
In the morning everything was socked in, so we began
packing up to ride.... but a couple of hours later
things suddenly cleared, and we decided to go for a
strenuous hike called the "Tongariro
Crossing." Most folks leave at 7am by
shuttle bus to the trailhead, but we didn't get
there until 11am... with borrowed
"kid-packs," a few snacks, and our cycling
shoes! What a hike it was! Steep and
challenging lava trail, swirling changing
weathe
A couple of downwind, mostly
downhill days through incredibly green rolling
farmland brought us back to sea level at Wangarei.
The highlight of that section (besides hitting 71
kph on a steep hill) was a day of "docking
and dagging" sheep and lambs! We all
got into the act of "mustering" the new
lambs, slotting them into a bizarre roller
aparatus so they could have their ears snipped,
get injections, have a couple of desirable body
parts removed, and then be reunited with their
bleating mums... What a day! We now
have more bizarre sore muscles to add to the
collection.
On strong recommendations from several cyclists, we chose to bypass busy Highway 1 into Wellington by hopping the train. We made the final
decision somewhat spontaneously
when, after 40 kms of riding, we pulled into a
small town near North Palmerston, and found out
that the only train of the day arrived in 30
minutes... and there was a pub across the street
too!
Other highlights thus far?
Sylvie
has fully developed into a skilled walker, keeping
us twice as busy as before! Marcin has been
our amazing "pit crew" for a couple of
weeks (he's outside holding the screaming baby as
I type!), riding ahead on his lighter bike and
handing us chocolate as we pass, cooking tasty
meals, and being all around awesome "uncle
Marcin" for the kids. It will be
sad to part ways in a couple of days, but it's
been wonderful having his support and company on
our odyssey! Preston joined the Odyssey a
couple of days ago, managing to track us down and
catch up via the wonders of email and bus travel.
He arrived at our soggy tent one night with a fine
cabernet (and a gnarly scotch) in hand, and will
ride with us for "a while" until ice
climbing, sea kayaking, and tramping pull him
away.... or the role of "Uncle Preston"
chases him away!
Time is passing quickly indeed!
We can't believe that we're done with the North
Island! All is well, and we are LOVING this
journey... Next stop Picton! ...Abel Tasman!?
...or Kaikoura? ...hmmm, we'll decide on the
ferry!
Nov 22 - Thanksgiving Day - Kaikoura! Nov 23 - The day after Thanksgiving Dec 17, 2001 - BLUFF!!! The "Land's End" of southern New Zealand
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